High-Tech Cameras to Watch Out

Canon EOS 80 D

Canon is one of the leading brands when we talk about quality cameras. The EOS 80 D by Canon is a responsive, versatile and powerful camera that gives life to your creativity. It features low-light, street, travel, sports and portraiture photography along with movie making. With 24.2 Mega Pixels it ensures high-quality picture and movie recording.

Also, the Cross-type 45-point AF that focuses and tracks the subject when it is in frame. The Canon EOS 80 D comes with Dual Pixel CMOS AF that allows you to enjoy smooth continues focusing when shooting for live videos. The Flicker Detection makes sure steady exposure and color when shooting regular bursts under flickering lights

Nikon Z7- Mirror-less Reinvented Camera

Another top-notch camera in the list is Nikon Z7. Awarded as a High-end Camera of the year 2018, it is more than just a mirrorless camera. Bringing vision into life, this advanced camera by Nikon comes with revolutionary full-frame lens mount and lightweight mirrorless design.

It is designed with 45.7 MP image sensor along with seamless integration with the DSLR system of the Nikon. The eye sensor switches between the monitor and the displays viewfinder automatically. The interchangeable lenses are a plus point.

Speaking about the quality it offers 46.89 million pixels and 45.7 effective pixels. Compatible with Z mount NIKKO Lenses, F mount NIKKOR lenses with mount adapter, this is easy to operate the camera by Nikon with Hybrid phase detection/contrast AF with AF assist autofocus system.

FujiFilm X- T3- An Unbeatable Performance Cam

When looking for the top camera brands available, FujiFilm is definitely not to be missed. The new X-T3 looks as same as Fujifilm X-T2, but with advanced and improved features. The improved autofocus, brand new sensor and video performance make it one of its own kind.

Its still camera is excellent when it comes to the best video/still hybrids in the market. The features like viewfinder, auto-focus, movie recording and more can leave anyone stunned with its performance. Along with these, it features X-Trans™* CMOS 4 & X-Processor 4, Weather resistant structure and 4K/60P 10-bit recording. The 26.1 million pixels for excellent for movie recording and capturing pictures.

Panasonic LX100 11

Panasonic LX 100 11 is one of the brilliant and much awaited compact cameras with killer features like sports shooters speed, resolution for commercial photographers and more. Featuring a large Micro four/thirds sensor, which is a 20MP sensor, it also includes 24-75mm f/1.7-2.8 standard zoom lens and 17 MP multi-aspect Micro four-thirds sensor and a 4k video capture.

Other specifications include 4k video recording, High-speed AF in approximately 0.10 seconds, A 3.0-inch LCD touch screen with 1240k-dot resolution, USB charging and integrated Wi-Fi and Bluetooth connectivity and more.

To know more specifications of Panasonic LX 100 11 visit the website today!

Canon EOS 6D 11- A Benchmark DSLR with Small full-frame

EOS 6D 11 is a perfect treat for portrait photographers and for shooting landscape. The full frame sensor captures momentary expressions at 6.5 frames/second. Even when shooting landscapes, the 26. 2 MP sensor captures images exuding clarity and life-like depth. It is also marked as one of the largest pentaprism viewfinder cameras that offers a clear view, enabling you shoot more impulsively.

Whether you love to shoot from low down angles or even from above the grounds, the easy to rotate and flip Vari-Angles screen is a great feature to explore.

Olympus OM-DE-M10 111- Micro Four-Thirds Mirrorless Camera

The next in the list is Olympus OM-DE-M10 111 16 MP micro four-thirds mirrorless camera. This interchangeable lens camera capture high-quality images. It features reliable 5-axis image stabilization for reducing the camera shake, enabling you to capture still photos. The portrait design of the camera is light-weight and portable.

The complete range of automatic shooting features makes it one of its own kind. Other than this, you can also enjoy many amazing features like 330 short/per charge battery life, TruePic V111 processor, 8.6 Fps continuous shooting, 2.3 M-dot electronic viewfinders and more.

To check out the range of its features and specification, explore the website.

Solve the Biggest Problems With Photo Retouching

Over the top Elimination of Ambient Noise

Surrounding commotion in photography alludes to arbitrary and uncalled for varieties in the splendor of the hues in pictures. It normally emerges as the consequence of deficiencies in either the hardware or sensors of the cameras being used. They must be expelled to guarantee the visual clearness of the photographs. Their intemperate disposal may regularly meddle with the last nature of the photograph however. This is the reason the technique must be conveyed mindfully advertisement with control.

Not Ridding Halos around Objects Completely

Coronas are groups of lights that embellish the edges of the primary questions in photos. They fundamentally emerge as the consequence of poor climatic conditions. This in this way implies they must be wiped out to give the photos the honesty they require.

In many examples, these coronas are never expelled totally. Along these lines, the last nature of the photographs are not as attractive as in a perfect world should be the situation. Most extreme care in this manner must be taken to make sure that they are totally dispensed with.

Over-brightening of the Teeth

Those photos that are taken of grinning individuals will typically get defensive. While stained teeth are awful to see, over-brightening them, then again, may mutilate the honesty of the ultimate result. This may render the photograph insignificant and conniving particularly if the subject is an outstanding open figure. Therefore, this action must be completed precisely and with most extreme concern.

Editing Images Disproportionately

In a few cases, the pictures must be edited to guarantee some coveted measurements. To edit a picture just means slicing that picture to measure for advantageous surrounding and accomplishment of the coveted angle proportion.

This methodology has regularly been mishandled however, a reality that has frequently prompted lopsided ultimate results. It ought to accordingly be done fastidiously and ideally by a prepared master as it were.

Nikon’s D3100

Nikon’s D3100 is very small and light in weight. The camera is designed keeping in mind its structural elements and its uncomplicated functioning.

This camera offers no disturbance to the others while shooting the images as it is quiet during the shots. Moreover, its ultra low vibration lets the users get sharp and clear images.

Single lens reflex camera

It is a single lens reflex digital camera ensuring and offering great quality pictures.

14.2 mega pixel camera

The high resolution camera ensuring 14.2 mega pixel resolution clean images.

3x Zoom

The zoom functions of the camera can be enlarged up to 3 times offering a closer and clearer view of the image.

Optical and LCD view finder

D3100 is embedded with the optical and LCD view finder with almost 100 percent LCD accuracy and 95 percent optimal view finder accuracy.

0.4 sec power on time

The camera has a quick 0.4 sec power on time which helps the user to shoot an image quickly without any discrepancy.

550 shots battery life

The camera has a long battery life of up to 550 shots and ensures a long life span as well.

27.4 oz weight

The weight of the camera is 777g resulting into a very light structured camera for the users. It is not at all heavy to handle and can be carried easily.

High detection range

D3100 has a high detection range of -1 to +19 EV.

Several focus points

The camera has an option to select the images from the various 11 focus points it offers to the users.

The camera offers an easy grip to the users. Even small kids can have a firm grip of the camera without letting it slip off easily. It is covered with plastic and not rubber unlike the other digital cameras offering a hard grip to the set.

The focus screen of the camera is a lot clearer and wider than the other digital cameras offered in the market. The focus even offers the warning signal and goes black when not used properly. This avoids poor quality pictures or images.

Cutting Out Images Using Photoshop

You should start by opening a photo in Photoshop and examine the person or object that you want to cut out. You should select the object that you are cutting out. One of the best tools to use to make the selection is the Quick selection tool. For ideal results you should ensure that you select the entire object. You should note that it’s always better to select a lot of background than to miss a critical part of an object.

After making the selection, you should copy and paste it where you want. When you paste the new image will appear as a new layer above the background layer. To hide the layers you should click the Eye icon that is usually beside the background layer. Once the object is on its own layer you will be able to easily change the background to anything that you want.

If you want to remove the background of a photo without erasing any part of the object you should use the eraser tool. If there are missing elements in your photo you should use the clone stamp tool. You should Alt-click the area where you want to take a sample and then drag the tool over the missing elements of the photo.

You should fill in the missing edges using clone stamp tool. To do this you need to Alt-click the edge near the top of the photo and fill the area below it. If the edges aren’t clear after filling them you should use the eraser tool to clean it up.

If there are some elements of the photo that aren’t in good shape thus need to be reshaped you should use the liquefy filter. Once everything is in order you should resize the photo to your desired size. You can also wrap or transform it using the Transform options under the Edit menu.

Digital Camera Purchase

TAKING CARE OF THE CAMERA LENS.

The most vital part of the digital camera is obviously the lens. It is very important to clean the lens with care to keep it spotless smudge less clean. A camera lens is very delicate, as it is the one that captures the images. There are a few ways that you can avoid doing damage to your lens and clean it so that you do not ruin your camera or damage it.

The dust and dirt that is stuck to your lens should be removed. Gently brush this away with a clean moist cotton cloth. Microscopic tiny pieces of stone or material can create scratches that can never be repaired, so be careful as you brush and wipe. Avoid being too brisk, be gentle so the lens are not ruined.

It might be worth noting that a little bit of carelessness is all it can take to make the camera lens unusable, but this should not deter you from cleaning them because this will put the camera in danger of being ruined. Never put your camera in more danger than necessary. There are going to be oils that will build up on the lens that cannot be removed by a simple brush. Use a high quality cotton cloth for your cleaning as this will prevent you from scratching the lens as you rub it. You should wash the cloth between the cleanings. One piece of dirt could ruin your camera!

There are two ways that can be used to clean the lens depending on the type of dirt being cleaned:
First, if the film built up on the lens is water-soluble, your best option is simply to use distilled water. You can purchase some distilled water at the local grocery store in the water isle, as it can take care of harmful atmospheric minerals that could have settled on the lens. Pour the water on to the cloth, never directly on the lens where it can seep into the camera and cause irreversible damage. Electronic gadgets and water do not mix.However, breathing on the lens and gently wiping, when out in the field can be a temporary substitute.

Secondly, if the oils that have settled on the lens are not water soluble you will need to use a regular alcohol based specially made 100% pure cleaner, with no additives that could damage the lens. Oil based saturation on the lens need specially made cleaners. Never use things like paint thinners or anything that is considered toxic and could be reactionary to the skin as the camera is used very close to your face.

Make sure that you do not hurt your camera; since it is an expensive piece of electronic equipment investment which you want around to photograph and preserve those wonderful, gorgeous, memorable once in a lifetime moments. One strange thing about life is that no one event or occurrence ever repeats itself in the same sequence and way; with the same friends, family or partner and with a similar passion; no matter how hard you might want it to be so! That is where that digital camera and the resultant images will ever be so handy.

COLOR, OR BLACK AND WHITE IMAGES?

Many professional photographers will choose not to do their work in color, but just black and white. The black and white pictures will give them a classic look, but it also shows a lot of class and techniques that are used and help save on film. Black and white photography is something that is easy for beginners as the techniques are easy to master. Also you will able to focus more on light, composition and character, rather than color.

For black and white pictures, they are more rewarding sometimes than getting the pictures in color. When conditions do not present you with a perfect shot and the perfect conditions for a color shoot then go for black and white. What may look excellent in black and white can often make a washed out, mediocre color photograph. Consider black and white photography especially when shooting outside on overcast days. If you do not have a lot of lighting you can still get a great shot in various colors when you use the colors that fade in and out of the picture to make some wonderful prints. On the other hand, you will not be able to see this effect in black and white, so your picture will be focused more on the actual subject matter. Whether you are exploring a new area on vacation or simply want some prints of your hometown, if the day is not bright and sunny, consider black and white.

Black and white is a good choice to have for portraits. Skin tone is a tricky thing in many color photographs-people tend to dislike close-up shots because they can clearly see blemishes in coloring, which black and white pictures will be able to conceal. Black and white photography also gets rid of the stark contrast between someone’s bright face and the dull background. The black and white photography will help to see things in a classy look and also it will add some whimsical romance to set the mood. That is why it is perfect for a wedding photo shoot.

Although black and white pictures will be scary in some instances, you can still use them as you would with those in color, like to help others pay attention to the finer details like the shapes and lines. Some of the best black and white pictures will help you to contrast very dark areas. The major advantage with the black and white pictures is that the same roll of film will print more images than in color, which for the professional photographer is an added bonus as it relates to more revenue gained with the same resources.

CONFIGURING THE APERTURE.

As a photographer one should Endeavour to master the configurations of the aperture, as this is a major tool towards the result of perfect quality photographs. Most digital cameras have simple automatic settings that are easy to get your head around, most especially if you are just starting out and not that much experienced. The aperture will help bring the subject matter into better view that will help you to make the photographs stunningly better.

The most common apertures to use are mid-range, from f8 to f11. Known as a “sweet spot” in the photography world, this is the automatic depth-of-field most cameras use if the settings are not changed. Mid-range apertures are good for easy focusing and to capture well balanced pictures. This is a good range to stay in for most photo-shoots, especially if you do not have the time to set the aperture after every shot as the automatic features will come very handy.

IF you are the adventurous and creative type you could try to explore the various options on the aperture configurations to change the look of your pictures and come up with something perfect for your needs. First, you can shoot in large apertures-f2.8 to f5.6-which will produce photographs with a low depth-of-perception field. In other words, use this option if you want to shoot a subject matter that is very close to your camera. If you are using a large aperture, you will be able to focus on the character or object, but also the background so that things do not seem so blurry. Large apertures are most commonly used for photographing wildlife and portraits.

As for the small apertures, they do the exact opposite. An aperture from f16 to f32 will draw you into the picture by creating sharp focus to most of the elements in the frame. This is where larger depths of perception fields happen to be created and you notice that the pictures will look more natural. Most landscape photographers use this when shooting so that they get a sharper image, even for items that are in the distance such as mountains.

The overall aperture capabilities on your camera are something that should be studied so that you can get the perfect shot when needed. Learn about how you can change aperture and depth of perception fields so that you can quickly take a picture and reflect a little more creativity. This is what will make the difference between an ordinary picture and a masterpiece. All these are options that can be reviewed before you make the purchase to ensure your use of quality aperture features as you go along capturing those momentous historical rare images with the digital camera.

Waterproof Digital Camera Review

An underwater camera allows you to capture parts of the world most people only see on screen savers. The photos taken from below the water line (or AT the water line) make for a great photo album, scrapbook, etc. They add tons of color, depth (literally AND figuratively!), and spark a whole different level of nostalgia in the memory when recalling the unique experiences shared in marine situations. But since most cameras you’d have on vacation can’t handle more than a few drops of sea spray, why should the whole poolside/underwater/starboard-side portion of the trip settle for living solely in your mind’s eye due to your existing non-water-compliant camera’s technological shortcomings?

If you’re anything like me, you’d prefer to carry as little around as possible when going on a vacation, especially one where a lot of time will be spent by the water. Many people usually lug around a digital camera for pictures above the water and a separate underwater camera for capturing shots of the beauty below the surface. In most instances the underwater camera is bulky and awkward, and takes up lots of unnecessary space. Price and quality are reflexive properties too for these specialized cameras, and pictures taken with disposable cameras are very poor quality. This doesn’t have to be the case!

There are several finalists in the search for an underwater camera that doubles as an everyday digital camera. These cameras perform well underwater and are the same compact size as your traditional digital camera. I am very particular in choosing a reliable waterproof digital camera, and have done the legwork for you. After all, I want to make sure the photos from MY vacation are as high in quality as my memories will be, without spending next year’s vacation money on the camera itself! I ended up purchasing what I believe to be the best camera for wet and dry use: the Olympus Stylus Tough 8000.

I was drawn to Olympus for the reliable brand name and competitive pricing their cameras offered. Personally, I have had luck with this brand, and I am more likely to trust electronics that come from more well-known brands, as they tend to have better customer satisfaction rates -and better warranties.

There were many reviews available on the Olympus Stylus Tough 6000, which is the predecessor of the Tough 8000. All the reviews I read on the Tough 6000 seemed to be much better than what I read about the other all purpose, underwater digital cameras. Why did I not go with the Stylus 6000? Well, other than the fact that the Tough 8000 was newer, shinier and more recent, the 8000 had something to offer that its papa didn’t – DEPTH!!

While sounding like an amazing camera, the Stylus 6000 is rated to a depth of 10 feet. This is perfect for many average vacations involving water, like playing in the shallows at the resort pool, or puddle-jumping on an ATV tour. It’s also great for kayaking, general swimming, shallow snorkeling and taking pictures in the rain. As an avid snorkeler & free diver I needed something that could go deeper. The Olympus Stylus Tough 8000 is capable of going down to 33 feet with no special case or underwater housing, just the camera itself, AS IS! Most cameras with this capability are much larger and bulkier, which brings me to the next deciding factor for my purchase: SIZE!

Having an all in one camera was essential to my decision. I did not want to have to lug around two cameras, nor did I want some giant beast of an underwater camera. After all, I’m not filming a National Geographic special; I just want a compact camera that takes quality photos above and beneath the surface. Size-and-specs-wise, Stylus 8000 suited my needs just fine. The camera itself is 2.4×3.7x.85, and weighs 6.4 ounces. Photo image quality can be set up to 12 megapixels, which offers a lot of versatility, depending on your intended use. (Note: At 12 megapixels, you will have the opportunity to blow up that once-in-a-lifetime-I-can’t-believe-we-saw-this shot to poster size and show it off withOUT any blurriness or loss in detail!)

Also, the lithium-ion rechargeable battery is majorly impressive in terms of long battery life and short recharge time. It was used in and out of the water repeatedly throughout each day with no low battery problems. A major improvement from typical AA battery cameras. Also, the low battery level indicator gives you plenty of warning, so you have a chance to either get to a charger or become picky with when to turn the camera on so you don’t miss out on the most special shots.

A final but VERY important factor I feel I should mention when talking about owning a reliable digital camera, whether intended for use above or below the water, is ease of use for others. Yes, this camera has a great timer for self portraits – even a self-portrait mode – and the owner will usually be the photographer, but it’s nice to have the option to hand that camera over and say cheese once in awhile. With the Olympus Stylus Tough 8000, point and shoot is easy to do with little technological background. The screen is a nice size for previewing (2.7 inch LCD display), autofocus is effortless, and the shooting button is right on the top! For more ambitious portrait-takers, the 3.6x optical zoom is easy to maneuver, and there are many picture modes, including Portrait, Sunset, Indoor….even Panoramic. There is even a Face Detection function that will autofocus figures in the picture – just in case Aunt Ruthy had a few too many when she was lining up the family table shot at Thanksgiving!

Birefringence Photography

Birefringence photography basically involves the use of two polarizing filters: one between the subject and the light source, to polarize the light, and a second on the lens of the camera.

The first filter should ideally be linear, but the one on the camera can either be circular or linear. Polarized light sources are easy to find, because most LCD television screens and computer monitors already feature linear polarization. If you really would rather not use a screen or don’t want those RGB pixels, just try a light table that has polarizing paper sitting on top instead. If you don’t have a polarizing lens filter, you can use a polarized sun glass instead.

Here are some tips to get the best results from birefringence photography.

Providing back-lighting to the subject gives the photo-elasticity (the liquid look to the colors) the best effect. If you use a computer screen, make sure that it is pure white. The easiest way to get this is to open Paint or Notepad, and make the program full screen. Adjust the brightness as necessary.

Then, put the polarizing filter onto the lens. Turn it around to see how the appearance of the subject changes. If your camera has the “Live View” option, this is much easier to manage. Check out the LCD screen, and when the subject looks like you want it, take your picture.

If you want a stronger effect, apply more than one plastic layer.To make a hip, retro image of a cassette tape that would make a fun 80s party image for an Evite, set the cassette against the all-white monitor screen. When the polarizing filter is on your camera, you can see the swirling bands of color on the clear surface of the cassette.

After you take the picture, you can edit the background from white to the color of your choosing. Going with black allows the bright colors of your cassette to stand out with the most contrast.

You will wow the people on your invite list with your photographic wizardry!

Quick to Take an Awesome Selfie

  • Make sure the light is right! Lighting is one of the most important factors when trying to take a flawless selfie. Make sure the lighting doesn’t cast shadows (as this can draw attention to unwanted areas and make facial features appear larger, such as the nose) and try to avoid fluorescent lighting, as this type of lighting is universally unflattering and can make the skin look pale and lifeless. The best type of lighting to use is natural light, if possible!
  • Know your angles! It may take time and some experimenting at first to find your best angles, but it will be worth it! Try different poses and movements to see which ones flatter both your face and body. Knowing your best angles and how to work them is definitely an important factor when taking a selfie. Also, play around with the placement of the camera – you don’t want your selfie to be too close or too far away. A low placed camera angle is usually best to be avoided as it is an unflattering angle for most people.
  • Pick a natural pose! This goes hand in hand with knowing your angles – it’s best to pick a natural pose that doesn’t look too forced or awkward. Play around with head tilts, smiles, and facial expressions until you find the selfie that you like the best.
  • Use caution when choosing a filter! Filters are both amazing and a curse as they can completely change the way a selfie looks. Choose a filter that’s more on the conservative side that adds a flawless look to the selfie, instead of an extreme filter that edits the selfie so much that you don’t even look like yourself anymore. There’s nothing worse than posting a selfie that’s edited so much that people don’t realize it’s you!
  • Write a witty caption! The caption can be describing your makeup, what you’re doing that day, where you’re about to go, details on your outfit – pretty much anything goes! Selfie’s with a caption or description are just that much better than selfies without, and are more likely to gain likes from your followers. Double points if your caption is clever and funny!

Light The Night

The technique involves two methods, moving a light around in the frame during a long exposure, similar to writing with a sparkler, on cracker night, or using a controlled light source, such as a flashlight or speedlight, on or off camera, to light a particular part of a scene.

The latter is more of a contrived and creative technique that can yield spectacular results, especially in a commercial setting. LED torches are the tool of choice here. $6.95 from Kmart, will get you a small pocket sized, but extremely bright and useful LED torch, which is also daylight balanced, so you won’t get any undue yellow shift in colour to whatever you light up. I often use colored gels / filters that go with my Canon speedlight, over the light source to further increase the dynamic feel of the image. I used this technique on a trip earlier in the year to the tip of Cape York.

A major part of light painting involves setting your composition. Often hard to do, when you in the pitch of night, with all the necessary evils at hand. No moon, no ambient light, and quite often in the middle of a quiet nowhere, all alone. If you’re well prepared, you’ll find that the tiniest amount of light in such a setting will have either a dramatic or devastating effect in your shot, so paint carefully.

I always test the setting, with sample shots of various areas, to measure the reflectiveness off anything shiny or wet, the time absorbed when lighting dark corners and the relevant amount of exposure to suit each. From there, you’ll need to orchestrate, which parts of the scene, are to receive a “heavy brush” of light exposure with the torch or flash, and which are to receive a “sprinkle. And you thought it was an easy technique! Using a torch, will provide you with so much more control, as a speedlight flash will never “choose its target”

For this article, I thought I’d step you through how to create your own image using the light painting technique. Light painting does take a while to grasp as there are many places you can make minor mistakes which consequently ruin the shot, but with a little knowledge and advice, anyone can try this technique.??Equipment Required?- Digital Camera?- Tripod?- Light Source – Flash or Torch or anything else you can think of (I’ve used my iPhone before!!)?- An open mind!

OK, first, set your tripod up to a predetermined height and leave it to the side. Time to scout for a scene. There’s no point setting all your equipment up to find that you just have to move later because something is killing your shot or getting in the way. I take my camera and walk the scene, looking for interesting things watching my background is not too congested, and that I have a way of separating my subject from the “junk”.

Switch your camera to manual, and auto-focus or AF. Zoom in and find a light source or light area that is the same distance away as the subject you want in focus, press the shutter half way down. If need be artificially light the subject with your new LED torch. Once focused zoom back out to your desired length and make sure, without touching the shutter or the focus ring switch back to manual focus. Make sure you’re not touching the focus ring when you compose.

This is something that no tutorial can tell you how to do, this is in the eye of the photographer. Be creative and show off your creative eye.

QUICK TIP: Wide angles make for much more interesting settings at night than longer focal lengths.

Nearly there, but getting the exposure right, is crucial. The best way to expose your shot manually is to use your camera’s built in light meter as a rough guide, but not as a precise judge. When you first start you will need to follow it tightly but as you gain more and more experience you won’t need the meter at all.

Set the camera Mode to AV (Aperture priority) Now, set the ISO speed to 3200 (or your highest ISO available). As a rough guide I always start with an aperture anywhere in between f/4-f/8 to achieve maximum sharpness. Deeper apertures of f/16 etc will help your sharpness factor, but take much longer to expose, sometimes, too long. Two things you’ll need to be mindful of here, firstly, that such a shallow aperture setting of f/4 or f/8 will mean you will have to be accurate when focussing, and secondly, but just as important, the difference in exposure between these two apertures can greatly vary your result, depending on the conditions you’re in. Your in camera light meter will tell you its suggested exposure time when you half depress the shutter. Let’s just say the camera suggests a shutter speed of 10 seconds, remember 10 seconds. Now set the ISO to 100. Take your 10 seconds and multiply that number by 32. This gives us 320 seconds, Divide this by 60, this gives us about 5.5 minutes.

Now, drag out your light source and begin painting in sections of your scene, by shining your torch onto the scene, during each test exposure. Check the results with each test image you capture. Look to achieve a nice ambient overall exposure without too much digital noise (a drawback of long exposures on digital cameras) or excessive highlights. Using the results you measured in each of your test shots, you should now be able to see what parts of your scene require more light painting, and what parts only require a quick flash past.

Now plug in a remote shutter release, set the camera to BULB mode (move the shutter down past 30 seconds). Get a timing device (Phone, stop watch or similar) and get ready to wait. Press the remote shutter release and lock it on. Start the timer. Wait the desired time and check the results. Look for excessive highlights or shadows with no light (which will fill with digital noise), and adjust your torch technique to suit.
A few things to remember here, the longer your torch shines or the more times you flash your speedlight, the light will accumulate and therefore increase the overall exposure, hence why you should run test shots and paint carefully. It’s not an exact science to start with, but after a few test shots, your accuracy can be high, especially if you take notes, whether mental or written to help you orchestrate the final image. What do we call this?? Planning… the ideals of every good photographer should begin with good planning. In Light Painting, its essential.

Natural Photography Filters

Lens Changes

A powerful choice in filters allows you to change the way the lens of the camera focuses, or highlights certain elements of the picture. One example of these, is a zoom lens. Smaller subjects, even as far down as ants and bees can be captured in slow motion or with time-lapse photography. Separate color filters in magenta or red let you choose certain light types in your shot, hand highlight certain aspects of the subject. This is great for butterflies, or to help with some harder to see choices. You can even choose between these two options with a Switchblade3 filter.

Microphones

Microphones let you filter out the surrounding noise, and really focus on your subject. Whether it is a creek babbling or the smallest bird call, an external microphone is a must. Depending on what you intend to use it for, you can get additional noise dampening benefits, or you can choose more directional localization. This is a really good way to get a backdrop recording of a natural experience, stop motion photography, of just the sounds by themselves. Many creatures communicate through imperceptible sounds, and directional microphones have been a big step in tapping into these languages.

Polarizers

The sun continuously plays tricks on nature photographers, causing many well thought out shots to be ruined by a mere trick of the light. Lens polarizers make sure these occasional sun glares do not interrupt the shot. They also help when you are photographing shinier objects, as the glint does not affect the polarizer either.